Bad Timing in Badami (Karnataka, January 7-8, 2009)

I arrive in Badami very late and am dropped off near the bus stand, not much more than an open parking lot off the village's sole main road, near the area's only hotels. I knock on the doors of several of the hotels until finally someone answers. As I have no choice of where to stay, I have no leverage to use in bargaining. Nonetheless, I still try to hint that the price is a little high. The night hotel boy makes a strange deal with me, that if I pay him bakshish (a bribe), he will say I came in that morning so that I don't have to check out so early the next day. So I basically pay the written price (which is always too high), but he gets a cut and I can stay later the next day, before I catch the night bus to Bangalore en route to Mamallapuram.

The next day, after little sleep, I am up and out touring the rock-cut caves temples surrounding the village of Badami. According to my Lonely Planet Guidebook, "Badami was once the capital of the Chalukya empire, which covered much of the central Deccan between the 4th and 8th centuries AD" (926). This explains why there are so many magnificent sculpted rock cave temples scattering Badami and the surrounding areas, which are today only small villages. These cave temples, according to the Lonely Planet, are "some of the earliest and finest examples of Dravidian temples and rock-cut caves, as well as the earliest free-standing temple in India...The forms and sculptural work at these sites inspired the later South Indian Hindu empires that rose and fell before the arrival of the Muslims" (927).

On the way from my hotel to the cave temples, I come across a large group of boys and men. They tell me they are preparing for a Muslim holiday celebrating something having to do with the prophet Muhammad. It seems that not all of the participants are Muslim, but I am informed that everyone celebrates this festival. It is a great photo opportunity:

Finally, I reach the cave temples. The first and oldest is dedicated to Shiva, the second is dedicated to Vishnu, the the third contains carvings or images of several deities, and the fourth and smallest cave is dedicated to Jainism and has an image of Suparshvanatha (the seventh Jain tirthankar) surrounded by 24 Jain tirthankars, and a sanctum containing an image of adinath, the first Jain tirthankar. At one point while I am at the caves, the night hotel boy finds me and asks for a photo. He is very short compared to the carvings:

Here are some other images from the cave temples:

After visiting the caves, I explore the 5th-century Agastyatirtha Tank and the waterside Bhutanatha temples, discovering more great photo opportunities:

I am not surprised to find some men sleeping next to the temple, an historical landmark. People sleep everywhere in India-it is so hot, the culture is relaxed, and unemployment is common.

On the other side of the tank is an archaeological museum, which houses examples of local sculpture. The stairway just behind the museum climbs through a dramatic sandstone chasm and fortified gateways to reach the various temples and ruins of the north fort, with expansive views overlooking the rooftops of Badami. On my walk from place to place, I encounter village children playing and doing chores:

I walk back to my hotel, have a snack from a street food wala, and see that the Muslim holiday festival is still happening:

Temples, Ruins and the Hospital (Hampi, Karnataka, January 3-7, 2009)

After the day visiting Anegundi and the Hanuman Temple, I am sure to see the other major attractions Hampi has to offer. These require that I take the small boat from Virupapur Gaddi, where I'm staying in a hut, to Hampi.

I visit the Virupaksha Temple, its meticulously engraved tower gazing high over Hampi Bazaar, lined with touristy stores and small restaurants. The main gopuram, almost 50m high, was built in 1442, with a smaller one added in 1510. Its main shrine is dedicated to Virupaksha, a form of Shiva.

Inside the temple I find Lakshmi, the temple elephant, and her attendant. I look on in horror as a tourist stretches out his hand, offering her a coin. My horror turns to amazement when I realize this is an elephant trained to take the offering and give it to her attendant, rather than snuff it down her trunk. After giving it to her attendant, Lakshmi raises her trunk to the donor's head for a blessing.

In the evening, I go once again to the cheap restaurant in Virupapur Gaddi and order a thali and ginger-lemon tea with unlimited honey. The same group of French and Israeli tourists are having dinner, and it is comforting to see them again. I meet another tourist, Yishai, an Israeli who asks to borrow my Lonely Planet. I give it to him, and then realize that I have torn out the pages he needs, so I find these for him. I ask him if it's worth it to go to Badami, and he asks me if it's worth it to walk to Anegundi. I tell him it's a nice day trip, and the Hanuman Temple is a must-see. He was very impressed by the cave sculptures in Badami, as he himself builds stone houses, so I put that on my destination list.

After thalis we leave the restaurant and walk to a more inviting cafe nearer to my hut. We talk and have tea. It seems he is really searching for something here in India. He was supposed to be married to an English woman, but that fell apart a while ago, and he still seems to be recovering. Back in Israel, he was being stalked by a woman from whom he could not get away, and so left to visit his sister in Ireland. From there, he decided he didn't want to go back to Israel, and so continued on to India, without so much as a guidebook! The attraction of India was an investigation into his father. Yishai's father was very interested in yoga and Indian philosophy and religion before he died when Yishai was younger. He was much older than his second wife (Yishai's mother) when he died, and he might have been getting dementia, but his exact cause of death is not known. Apparently he just walked off one day, and was found dead away from Yishai's village.

In the next days (I cannot recall the chronology) I visit Hampi's ruins. I cannot recall those exact ones I saw, but according to my Lonely Planet, the ruins include the Vittala Temple; Sule Bazaar and Achyutaraya Temple; the Royal Centre, which contains the walled compound known as the Zenana Enclosure, the Elephant Stables; the Underground Virupaksha Temple and the Queen's bath (922).

I also decide I should pay a visit to a doctor for my cough, which was not solved in Gokarna. I cannot recall how I get the recommendation for the hospital, but I go into town on a bus and take an auto-rickshaw to a hospital. I am a bit nervous, but I see other foreigners there and figure this must be the doctor that foreigners visit. Finally, I am able to see him. He orders an x-ray, seems unnecessary and again makes me nervous, but I go along, figuring he knows better than I. It seems I have fluid in my lungs, and he needs to inject a saline solution into the vein on my hand to get rid of the fluid. He gives me antibiotics for the infection. At one point he talks about terrorism in India and blames Muslims for India's problems. I do not agree, but I do not argue with my doctor. I pay my bill and leave, taking an auto-rickshaw to the pharmacy I saw near the bus stand. Here I get my prescription is filled.

Back in Hampi for the night, I go to my usual restaurant and take rest. I have inspected my guidebook and realized that there might be an annual dance festival happening in Mamallapuram. It is not certain, as the book only reports what happened in the past, but it gives me some motivation to move on from Hampi. I decide it will be my next destination after Badami.

At some point in the next day, I walk through bright green rice paddies to a restaurant I have been told has a book exchange. I exchange a book I have already read for "A Pilgrim at Tinker Creek" by Annie Dillard. It is a slow read, and not something I am able to appreciate until I finish it back home.

I am a bit indecisive about how and when to move on, so by the time I get my things together for Badami, I am leaving inappropriately late. I cross on the boat and get to the bus station. The schedules are inconvenient, and I should have planned for an earlier bus ride. I will arrive in the middle of the night and worry about finding a hotel.

Exploring the Realm of the Monkey Gods (Hampi, Karnataka, January 3-7, 2009)

According to my Lonely Planet guidebook, "The fascinating ruins of the 15th-century city of Vijayanagar, near the village of Hampi, are set in an extraordinary landscape of giant granite boulders, lush paddies and banana plantations. The clock seems to have stopped at this World Heritage site, and you can spend a surprisingly large amount of time gazing at the weirdly balanced rocks, wondering how millions of years of erosion could achieve such formations...In the Hindu legends of Ramayana, this area was Kishkinda, the realm of the monkey gods. In 1336 the Telugu princes Harihara and Bukka founded the city of Vijayanagar, which over the next couple of centuries grew into one of the largest Hindu empires in Indian history...This all came to a sudden end in 1565 when the city was ransacked by a confederacy of Deccan sultanates; it subsequently went into terminal decline...Although it was declared a World Heritage site in 1986, only 58 of the 550 monuments in the area hold heritage-protection status" (919-920).

Over the next few days, I take short day trips to the attractions Hampi has to offer. I try to do a little something each day, but not too much as I need to rest. At this pace, it will take me a while to see everything here. On the one hand I feel I am wasting time, but on the other hand I don't really know where to go next. I have nothing pulling me!

One of my first destinations is Anegundi. My Lonely Planet indicates that it is less commercialized and more residential than Hampi Bazaar, and I am instantly drawn to this place. Plus, it is within walking distance from Virupapur Gaddi, and I do love to walk. According to my Lonely Planet, "North of the river is the ruined fortified stronghold of Anegundi...an older structure than those at Hampi; within it you'll find a charming village...Much of the old defensive wall is intact and there are numerous small temples worth a visit" (922-923). Here are some photos from my walk:

It is a hot, sunny day--like most days here--and I am tired when I finally arrive in Anegundi. The place is quite sparse; I try to orient myself using the small, over-simplified Lonely Planet map and the bits of tourist signage posted at key locations in town. I try to make it to all the significant temples and historical sites. It's really not that impressive overall, but I do like this religious shrine and iconography:On my way back from Anagundi I visit the whitewashed Hanuman Temple, perched atop the prominent Anjanadri Hill. The temple is just a little ways off the main road from Anagundi to Virupapur Gaddi. There is maybe an less than an hour of sunlight left, and I'm a little worried I won't make it up and down in time for the last bus back to Virupapur Gaddi. The climb to the top of the hill will take maybe 30 minutes. But it seems many travelers are gathering to view the sunset, so I go on. Atop the hill I meet some travelers who are willing to split the cost of an auto-rickshaw with me.

The temple is aptly named, as monkeys abound (Hanuman is the monkey god). I take my shoes off to walk on the holy ground and argue with the shoe guard, who seems to indicate that a donation for watching my shoes is mandatory. I sneak away and explore. Here are some photos of what I see of the temple, and views of the temple's surroundings:I watch the sun descend, a little worried about missing the bus and not being able to find the people who offered to share a ride with me. Most travelers are grouping up to watch the sunset, but I am alone. I enjoy hopping over crevasses and exploring the rock's structure, all the while people-watching. I leave a little before dark, so I can make it down the stone-carved staircase before the rush. Luckily, I run into the people with whom I will share a ride. At the bottom of the hill, I buy a coconut, as I am so thirsty. I make sure to have the coconut-walla slice it when I am finished drinking, so that I can eat the flesh.

After a long day of sight-seeing, we head back toward Virupapur Gaddi and my bungalow. In the evening, I usually go to a particular small restaurant near the entrance to Virupapur Gaddi. It is the cheapest place I can find. I usually order the thali and a hot ginger lemon honey. They give me a whole bottle of honey to use freely, and I use more then they'd probably like me to because honey should help my lung infection and cough.

One night, there are a group of French people and one Israeli woman who is living in France with her boyfriend. She speaks negatively of Israel, and of places like Hampi that attract so many Israelis. These travelers seem to be newer to India, and I help them translate the menu. I try to use a little of my French. I appreciate their conversation and friendliness. Like me, they seem to be at a loss for deciding where next to go. We exchange ideas, but ultimately both they and I end up staying in Hampi a bit longer as we dream up the next leg of our journeys.

Amidst Ancient Ruins in Hampi (Karnataka, January 2-7, 2009)

I arrive in Hampi in the early evening. Uncle Mike sent me an email telling me to cross the small Tungabhadra River from the Hampi Bazaar to Virupapur Gaddi. The latter is more laid-back and quiet, and supposedly lodging is less expensive. Unfortunately, I arrive after the last boat shuttle departure at about 6pm. Almost all of Hampi's rooms are full, making bargaining almost impossible. I am at a loss for where to stay.

Finally, one hotel owner suggests I stay at the restaurant above his hotel--a roof restaurant. There is covering, and the weather is warm, so I don't technically need a room. I won't have a shower, and I'll have to wait until the patrons leave for the evening to fall asleep, and wake in the morning when the noise of the street starts. I am disappointed, but it seems like my only choice, and the restaurant owner agrees to let me stay for a fee. It is illegal, and I have a feeling I won't sleep well being so exposed. I decide to leave my bag at the restaurant and take a walk around to make sure this is the only place I can find. Without my heavy bag, I'll be able to do a more thorough investigation.

Finally, I come across a grim option--I think it's called the Krishna Guesthouse. I cannot recall exactly, but it is something like an above-ground cellar, with concrete walls that are painted a bright blue-green, and a series of small cells with bars across the windows. I can't bargain, but it's reasonable, so I go back to the restaurant, pick up my bag, and move in. At least there is a mosquito net over the bed.

The next morning, I am anxious to get across the river and find a place in Virupapur Gaddi. If Hampi Bazaar is so full, I figure I'll have to get there early to find a good room at a good price. While I'm waiting for the boat to arrive, I find a great photo opportunity of some Indian girls doing their ritual bathing and grooming in the river.

The river is quite narrow; I can easily see on the other side the small motor boat that is to shuttle the crowd slowly gathering around. It touches either side about every thirty minutes. Finally, it arrives. I climb in, being careful to balance with my pack on. In addition to the young man operating the motor, a young boy works to collect Rs 10 (and a little more for luggage) from each passenger.

We arrive at the other side and disembark. Up a short hill of dry mud, and I begin to see the first signs of tourist hostels and restaurants. It seems Hampi exists purely because of tourism, and I can't help but be disappointed. This trip has taught me that although Uncle Mike and I have been to many of the same places, we seem to be drawn to and satisfied by different facets of these places. It is clear that Hampi is a climber's paradise--it is a tourist town surrounded by boulders and ancient ruins carved out of and into rock. After a day of climbing, the climber can return to his comfortable, cheap hostel, order all types of cuisine at little expense, or buy hashish easily from one of the many dealers whispering in ears trying to make a sale. But this scene is not for me.

Nonetheless, I am still a bit ill with my lung infection contracted while at the ashram, and I reckon this will be an easy place to get some rest. The pace is relaxed, I'm surrounded by more tourists than Indians, and there's not too much to see, so I don't feel like I'm missing out. Plus, rooming here is very cheap, as most of the rooms are thatched-roof bungalows or huts.

I walk down a long dirt road lined with places to stay and eat. I try to find a place to stay, but many are full. Finally, near the end of the road, I take a right onto a side road, and find a small cluster of thatched-roof bungalows. All but one are vacant, and I stay here. It is one of the cheapest places I've stayed, so I feel good about using Hampi as a resting location.

The only other person staying at this same place is a man who has been coming here since before Hampi was on the tourist trail. I think he's German, if I remember correctly. He is a rock climber and, apparently, an old hippie. He's very angry that Hampi has sold out, and is preparing to go into nature for a while, away from the impurity that Hampi has become. I don't like his energy, but he's the only person I have to talk with. The man running the hotel (who takes my money, sweeps the bungalow with a broom of straw, and makes sure I have a mosquito net) seems to indicate his wife is sick. Something with her lungs. I wonder if we have the same thing. The angry climber said she used to make wonderful meals, but she can't this time around.

Welcoming the New Year on the Beaches of Gokarna (December 30-January 2, 2008-2009)

Near the end of our YIC course, everyone is talking about their plans for after the course. Yung gu will stay 1 week longer for the Yoga and Diabetes course. Remee and Beena will stay for another year for the Yoga Therapy course. Alan has to stay to complete the practicum portion of this 1-year course. Markus will leave to take other healing therapy courses in India. Lisa and Jean will return to Goa, where they had enjoyed themselves prior to YIC. Many of the Indian students will go home and either stay there, or return to Prashanti in about a month, when their coursework begins. My roommate Jin is dreading a return to South Korea, where people will tell her she's gained weight in India (she's still very thin, however). She wishes she could travel longer, but her mom wants her home.

I am trying to decide. I have signed up to sit a 12-day Vipassana meditation course in Bangalore. The courses are run by volunteers and therefore available on a donation basis. While they exist around the world, including the US, there are many locations in India and travelers often find the ambiance and history of the region conducive to the course's objectives. This is one of my goals for my India trip, but I am still ailing from my terrible cough and lung problem, so I decide to postpone the rigorous schedule and austere manner of the Vipassana course.

At the last minute, I decide instead to join a group of YIC and SVYASA students headed to Gokarna beach in Karnataka. The non-Indians going are Alan, Julie, Markus, Remee and Binha. I do not recall the Indians who went. I think they are mainly friends with Remee and Binha, and full-time SVYASA students, rather than YIC students. A few of their non-SVYASA friends also come. A Japanese student in the bachelor's degree program also comes. He speaks very little English and seems to know Alan best. Despite his inability to communicate well, it is his goal to complete a PhD program at SVYASA. Nobody seems to be able to recall his name, so he is called something from one of our classes...I think cin maya (as in cin maya mudra, one of the hand positions for breathing exercises).

All the students at Prashanti Kutiram must have an out pass signed before leaving campus. This is easy for the YIC students, as their course has ended, but much more difficult for the long-term students (Alan, "Cin Maya," and the Indians). I think Alan has to forge Cin Maya's out pass, even though both are full adults!

The Indian students have organized a van and driver for us, and we split the cost. One of my hesitations was that it is quite expensive, compared to what the same trip might cost on bus or train. But it is also not easy to get to Gokarna from SVYASA, as it will require first going to Bangalore, and then more than one mode of transportation from there (I think). Also, as it is New Year's, many people are headed to the beaches, and reservations for transportation or hotels might be full. I am counting on strength in numbers. Also, I enjoyed by time at YIC, and I still want to linger with a couple of the people from my class, and gradually fall away from the experience, rather than jut away alone again.

But I soon realize what my decision means. While I had pictured a peaceful New Year's on a quite beach, I had forgotten that most people celebrate the New Year with alcohol, fireworks and partying. The Indian guys who planned the trip start drinking on the van ride to Gokarna. It will be a long drive, maybe nine or so hours, through the night. I can't recall if we were short one seat (in part because I had decided to come at the last minute, which also saved everyone some cash), but people switch off sleeping in the aisle. Although Markus only travels with a small backpack, he seems to be the most prepared, with a decent sleeping bag. I donate my SVYASA yoga mat, which is like a thick rug, to the aisle "bed." At one point, in the morning, Markus remarks that you'd think students of yoga would be up for a peaceful, sober New Year's. I think we both have a pang of regret about traveling with this group.

We arrive in the morning, which is New Year's Eve, only to find that there's no hostel available. Here's a picture of Julie and an Indian guy upon our arrival at the entrance of the beach, and a view of the beach from above:

At this point, I am so tired and still not feeling well, and I just want to sleep. The Indians know someone else who has reserved a room, and we are allowed to put our things in there. Throughout the day, people from our groups go try to find rooms. We only find one hut--quite far from the other hostel and the main beach, hidden in the woods. I think Markus, Alan and Cin Maya decide they will room there.

I cannot recall what I do for the day. Probably worry about feeling better, and where to sleep, all the while trying to stay awake. Maybe I take a shower in the friend's hostel room. I also go into town with a couple of the nicer Indian boys to see a doctor about my lung infection. The doctor says I have some tropical thing--I can't remember. He says that to be sure, I'd need a test of some sort, but he can only administer it on certain days. The Indian boys who accompany me advise that I do not get treatment here, as it is such a small town and facility. I'll have to wait. We have some food from one of the restaurants lining the beach; all of the restaurants are somewhat Westernized.

At night, we plan to have a feast. But the restaurant has so many orders, we wait for a long time. As it gets dark, people are shooting off fireworks and drinking in crowds. It seems dangerous to me, but I seem to be the only one worrying. I am so tired, and just want to sleep. But I stay awake through the feast that finally arrived. I cannot recall what I have. Finally, after much debate and discussion regarding where we will sleep, I am insistent that I will just sleep in the van. I take my yoga mat, airplane pillow and travel sheet. I cannot recall who comes with me, but there are a few others who share the van with me. Finally sleep!

As morning comes, a few others join us in the van. Then it is time to fully wake up. We still don't have a room for ourselves. In the course of the night, Cin Maya never made it to the hut where Markus slept. Alan seems to have lost him, but it turns out he wanted to sleep by the water.

I try to make the most of my time on the beach, but I am becoming adamant that I must leave. I will lose money because included in the price is the trip back to Bangalore, but I don't want to spend one more minute in that van with those people. Julie also wants to depart from the group. Markus does as well, but he has to go back to Bangalore anyway, so he will stick with the group if only for the ride. Remee and Binha don't seem to mind, as these are their friends and they will return to SYVASA and study with them. Alan is cynical but easy-going. Cin Maya, well, I can't really talk to him.

Julie and I finally find a beach hut to share. It is nice to have a place of our own, and especially nice to take a shower. Though the water is cold, after the first minute, it is so refreshing to take an outdoor shower in such hot weather.

Markus had offered to do some pranic healing on me, and I take him up on the offer. I had seen him doing this to Ahalya at Prashanti during one of our class breaks. She had chronic belching problems on account of the stress she was under at home. She always insisted she got married too early. Pranic healing instills positive energy and takes away negative energy. Or something like that. We go to a quiet place on the beach, on a large boulder. His hands hover over me, I close my eyes. For the most part we are silent. After, he talks about the color of my aura, and the colors his hands inspired. It seems he hasn't done anything drastic, but he insists that even this subtle manipulation will bring positive healing.

It is nice to be with more peaceful people. But soon I will be leaving. I am going to to go Hampi. It's on my list of places to visit because my Uncle Mike, who had previously visited India, had gone and it was one of the few places in India he liked. Granted, he is a rock climber and Hampi is a well-known bouldering destination. At least the beach is beautiful, especially at sunset:

The next morning (I think), I wake up very early and Julie walks with me to town. I need to borrow some money from her because none of the ATMs have worked with my card, and I had to pay for the round-trip van ride. I will send her a check when I get back home. I am thankful for her trust and friendship. Julie really grows on me. She reminds me a bit of my friend Rebecca Glowacki, or of one of my favorite professors, Natalie Gummer, a professor of religious studies and expert on Buddhism. After getting money from the ATM, we separate (if I remember correctly), I find the bus stand and wait. There is still time before the bus comes, so I find a nearby food stand and have some breakfast--either idly or dosa and sambaar, I cannot recall.

Reflections on Ashram Life (Prashanti Kutiram, Jigani, December 1-30, 2008)

This is a combination of an excerpt from an email I wrote friends regarding my ashram experience, and additional information I added today:

The ashram...It was a great experience, especially looking back on it from America, where yoga is so different. At the ashram, it really was about living a holistic "yoga lifesyle," not just yogasanas (physical postures). I learned that yogasanas and pranayama (breathing exercises) are really just a preparation for meditation. The yoga lifestyle is all about experiencing and spreading bliss. Although I learned this in theory from the academic lectures on the four types of yoga--bhakti (devotional), karma (action/service), raja (physical), jnana (intellectual)--I think I learned this most clearly from the yoga games we were sometimes required to play. These were improvised physical or performance games. The Indian students were so spontaneous, unself-conscious and funny. This, too, is a form of bliss and these games brought me to a good place, just like yogasanas or pranayama.

My roommate Jin (from South Korea) and I woke up at 4:40 am every morning for our 5 am class, yogasans for one hour. Then we had pranayama (breathing), then breakfast (always kitcheree, a healthy and delicious mixture of rice and dhal; and then other things such as idlis, which are rice patties; dosa, a pancake-like food; mixed cooked veggies; and the foreigners always got fruit because we ate in a different place for breakfast...kind of strange, but it was nice to have the daily fruit, usually coconut and something else like papaya, and catch up with the other foreigners).

After breakfast, we had maitrimilan (friendship meeting), starting with about 30 minutes of singing--I think verses from the Baghadvad Gita, and then a lecture by Guruji (aka Dr. Nagendra), the guy who started the school. The whole time I thought he must have a PhD in Philosophy or Religion or Medicine, since he talked a lot about physical benefits of yoga, but turns out he was an Engineer with NASA and then decided to open the ashram/university/hospital. He opened it with Dr. Nagarathna, the head doctor. She performs research on the effects of yoga lifestyle (asanas, pranayama, devotion, philosophy) on health and healing, and has been published in important medical journals. Anyway, Guruji was NOT cool. We had to watch so many videos of him talking about key points and then elaborating with long, repetitive stories that weren't necessary for understanding the concepts. Basically, it was hilarious and the students and I had to keep our laughter in many days, but often we were cracking up through the whole lecture. One day my friend wrote in her notes, "bliss=fragrance," and we were wondering what that meant from all the crazy things Guruji said and we had to try to memorize. Then we realized he ended every lecture, saying "Let us now spread the fragrance of bliss."

After maitrimilan we did karma yoga (action/service yoga), usually some menial task, and then had bath time. I learned that Hindus are religiously bound to take a bath every day, hence the requisite time for this. Although Jin and I only had hot water at 4:30 am, we would go into the Indian girls' shared bathroom to get hot water at this later time so that we didn't have to get up so early. The Indian girls had many more people in their room, and shared a bathroom, but they almost always had hot water.

Then back for a lecture and more asanas. Then lunch, one hour break, lecture, yoga games or break or asanas, lecture, two hour break, dinner, devotional singing, lecture, happy assembly (talent show)/something else. I can't remember exactly! We were required to serve during one meal per day. I got the lunch meal, which was the most labor-intensive. People were very demanding--"more rice, didi"--and not very good at instructing me on how much they wanted or where on their plate they wanted food. I was a sometimes angry server.

Another thing we had to do maybe one week into the program were kriyas (cleansing) in the morning. These included jal neti (water through the nostrils), sutra neti (catheter up the nostril through the mouth!), and bamana dhoti (drink 1-2 liters of warm salt water fast, then throw it up to cleans mucus out of stomach lining, on an empty stomach of course). I was at first opposed to all this, but it is much easier to do in a group of 35 people. It's a good bonding experience. Sometimes in the mornings when we were doing asanas inside, we would hear other groups doing their kriyas just outside the wall in the outdoor area where people did kriyas!

We had exams, and though they required only memorization and no critical thinking, it was difficult to cram all the information into my head when we only had about three hours per day of free time, and I was exhausted by our 5 am-9 pm daily schedule. On the first exam, one of the student coordinators of the class came around and gave people answers. I felt so guilty when he gave me answers, but when I talked to others after, they were like, "Yeah, he helped me out, too." Then I justified it to myself, thinking that there is corruption everywhere in India, so corruption in a university ashram must be okay, too!

We also had to write a group paper and do a 30 minute group presentation. My group consisted of: a girl from Canada (Lisa), a doctor from Bangalore who spoke Kanada, Hindi and English (Dr. Satish), a student from Sri Lanka who studying in Tamil Nadu and spoke Tamil and English (Sanjay), an 18-year old freshman girl from Karnataka who spoke Kanada and little English (Aswini), a 20ish-year old girl from somewhere north who spoke Hindi and little English. There were no computers (except pay ones, for the Internet), so we had to write our papers, and our teacher was very particular that we make borders equally on every sheet. It was like elementary school! So, imagine writing a group paper on jnana yoga (our topic, intellectual yoga, one of the harder topics) in a group of 6 people, not all of whom speak English, and then doing a 30 minute creative presentation! Challenging, but fun and rewarding in the end.

In addition to our coursework, the staff at SVYASA had some fun surprises planned for us. On the full moon, they prepared a special meal for us--complete with bhelpuri and gulab jamun--and we ate outdoors on a roof. We played games, and the winners/loosers had to perform (sing, dance) what they were asked to perform. Another day, we hiked through a small village to a nearby nature area filled with intruiging rock formations to have a picnic. We had time to explore, and Yung gu and I had fun taking pictures. Yung gu had a great camera and enjoyed taking photos of people doing things natural to them, things that brought out their personality. Or things that were just plain funny.

We also had Christmas in the ashram, since I was there in December, and I was surprised at how much the Hindus got into it! They were totally excited to learn about Jesus! Jane and Lisa organized the whole thing. The got permission to go to Bangalore with Jai (class assistant) one day and bought the necessary supplies. We decorated Mangala Mandir. We hung a giant star above the state, decorated a small Christmas tree, and made a manger. I was instructed to go out to the cow shed to get some hay. Everyone made paper stockings, which were hung on the stage. We had a birthday cake for Jesus, and birthday cake was given out in the cafeteria for dinner. At satsangh, we sang Christmas carols after the devotional songs. One of my Indian friends Spurthy even lead a carol she had learned in school. We had a Secret Santa gift exchange, during which Jane read The Night Before Christmas. I gave The Kite Runner to Markus (Germany), along with dried dates (one of the more expensive canteen foods) and some fruit. Yung Gu gave me beautiful little butterfly hair clips, which I since lost somewhere in India. At night, there was the option to watch a chipmonks film Remi had. I called home during the film.

At the end of our YIC batch, we were asked to contribute to a Happy Assembly. I got together with Naveen, Spurthy and Nagendra to perform Udja Kale Kawa, a song from a much-loved Bollywood film, Gadar. The film takes place in 1947, during Partition. It is about a Muslim woman who falls in love with a Sikh man, and the conflict that ensues when the woman finds the father she thought was dead working for the Pakistani government in Lahore. I borrowed a violin from the musician who comes weekly to play the hand organ for devotional singing. At one point, I had taken a short lesson with him and he had tought me India scales. The violin is not of high quality, but it will do. Naveen is insistent that the song begins with a very famous violin part, and the audience will love it. I learn the simplified violin part and vamp two variations throughout the song. Spurthy provides the harmony. Nagendra provides the hand organ. Nagendra has a lovely singing voice and sings along with Naveen, but Nagendra's voice is also much too loud for our balance. Our rehearsals are stressful. The Hindi lyrics are difficult for Spurthy, a native Kanada speaker, who must write out all the lyrics before learning them. I have to discern the structure of the music independently, as Naveen is more concerned with getting Spurthy on pitch, and making sure Nagendra doesn't sing too loud. The language of rehearsal is more Hindi or Kanada than English, although I often ask for information. We just don't have enough time. In the end, however, it turns out great. The audience recognizes the song instantaneously when I begin the violin part, and everyone sings and claps along.

Other notable performances during the YIC 89th batch Happy Assembly are Lisa's dance to Madonna; Lisa's broadway singing; and a group of people who do a comedy routine of our class. Ahalya plays Padmasri Didi and Satish plays Dr. Nagendra (Swamiji). Naveen demonstrates the kriyas in a separate comedy routine. What at talented group of people!

The last 5 days were unusual in that there was a cow conference at the ashram, an academic conference on scientific research perspectives related to the cow (the holy animal) and the panca gavyas, or the 5 aspects of the cow used in Ayurveda--dung, urine, curd, ghee and buttermilk. Our course ended early, and we were to do karma yoga for the conference. Though I didn't do much because I had developed a terrible cough/lung infection from lack of sleep and air pollution. I felt fine, but knew I should rest. I attended a few talks. One on curing so many cancers with the panca gavyas. Another--the most controversial--a woman spoke about the cow not being the most perfect animal we think it to be because humans shouldn't drink its milk cuz we don't digest it well, and most mammals don't drink milk after childhood. Some people were upset and said she shouldn't be there. Which reminds me that I did feel some Hindu nationalist sentiment at the ashram. For example, in a lecture about the culture of India that totally ignored all but Hindu religion and culture. I feel the university must get money from Hindu nationalists.

One other thing...I became quite sick at the ashram. I think it was the culmination of so much pollution, plus the lack of sleep and intense schedule, and maybe also the kriyas. In any case, I developed a very audible cough in my lungs. It was nice to be in a place with so many people dedicated to healing at that moment. Satish made sure I was gargling with salt water. He also wrote a prescription for cough medicine, which Lisa and Jane bought when the went into Bangalore. I was advised not to consume dairy. Padmasri Did advised me to drink warm tumeric water. Alan recommended an ayurvedic doctor, who prescribed ayurvedic medicine which, ultimately, I did not purchase. Jin and Yung Gu told me to get rest. When we were in Gokarna after Prashanti, Markus performed pranic healing on me. Although my cough lasted for maybe a month after Prashanti, it was nice to have so many people helping me out. I went to several doctors, took several antibiotics, had an x-ray taken and an IV of saline water, and eventually, with the right antibiotics, my cough got better.

What did I learn in the ashram?

One, observing the Indian students in the ashram, they were so comfortable improvising things at the last minute. When the foreign students were freaked out because the teacher only gave us a day to prepare for an exam (because she didn't want us to have tension), they took it in stride. When we had yoga games (mainly playground-type games, and the winner/loser has to perform in front of everybody), they were awesome at getting up there and throwing something together. I think this, more than the yogasanas, taught me about the bliss that is the yoga lifestyle. The contrast in approaches to coursework and games was articulated well by one of our gurus, who said that Westerners have conquered the external and excel at environmental control, while Easterns have conquered the mind. This is something I try to keep in mind now that I'm home, and something that helped while traveling in India, when I was standing in a densely packed bus, holding onto the side so I wouldn't fall onto anybody, for example.

Two, I got to examine myself and my habitual psychological tendencies in an environment very different from what I am used to, and shed new light on these. For the first two weeks, I was my usual shy, reserved, judgmental, guarded self. But I soon realized I only had so little time with all of my wonderful classmates, and I tried to bond more with them. I really appreciated all the interesting talents they brought to the experience...Spurthy's angelic harmonies during devotional singing; Naveen's comedic charictures; Lisa's positive energy and compelling life story; Julie's natural curiosity and willingness to confront tough questions; Yung Gu's natural friendship, hospitality, and love of adventure; Jin's care and compatibility as a roomate; Virginia's yogasana talent; Mangala's frienship and beauty; Satish's discerning intelligence and patience; Aswini's innocence; Sangay's care and hospitality; Ahalya's quiet wisdom; Ayoush's humor; Heman's talent; Jai's relaxed ways; Markus' dedication to healing; Alan's perpetual cynicism; Beena and Remi's friendship; Padmasri Didi's care for the wellbeing of us all...there are so many people I do not want to forget, I fear I am already leaving someone out...

Three, I try to make relaxation and bliss the goal of yoga classes I teach, rather than physical postures. I believe a slow, less intensive physical practice can be as productive (or more productive) than a physically intense yoga practice, when executed with total awareness. In my teaching and personal practice, I am trying to balance the typical Western yoga practice with what I discovered at SVYASA.

Ashram Schedule (Prashanti Kutiram, Jigani, December 1-30, 2008)

This was the general daily schedule for the YIC program at Prashanti. Some things changed slightly, but for the most part this is reflective of a typical day.

5-6: yogasanas/kriyas
6-7:10: pranayama, meditation
7:15-7:45: breakfast
8-8:45: maitrimilan (friendship meet; short lecture and Q&A by Guruji, Dr. Nagendra)
8:45-9:45: karma yoga/group work/study time
9:45-10:30: bath and wash
10:30-11:20: lecture
11:30-12:25: yogasanas
12:30-1:30: lunch
1:30-2:30: rest/library
2:30-3:30: lecture
3:30-4:30: yogasanas/Self-Management of Excessive Tension (SMET)
4:30-5:00: malt/milk
5:00-6:00: yoga games/group work/study
6:00-7:00: satsangh (devotional chanting)
7:00-8:00: dinner
8:00-9:00: trataka/happy assembly/report presentation/study
9:00-9:30: study, lights off

An explanation of some of the terms:
maitrimilan (friendship meet): recitation of verses from the Baghadvad Gita, short lecture and Q&A with Guruji, Dr. Nagendra
yogasanas: physical yoga postures
kriyas: cleansing practices (jal netti, sutra netti, bhamana dhoti)
pranayama: breathing exercises
yoga games: improvised physical and theatrical games played with the whole YIC batch
satsangh: devotional singing (bhakti, or devotional, yoga)
happy assembly: talent show, filled with Indian classical dance, comedy, music, etc., usually put on by a specific group within the university, i.e. arogyadhama patients
trataka: kriya (cleansing practice) for the eyes and meditation technique