Hidden Beauty: Orchha (Madhya Pradesh, September 25-26, 2008)

I take the Shtabdi (express) train from Delhi to Jhansi, and then a tuk-tuk (auto rickshaw) to the small town of Orchha in Madhya Pradesh state.

The word Orchha means "hidden," as this medieval city was home to rulers who had to retreat after defeat. When the Tughlaqs, who were ruling Delhi in the 15th century, pushed the Bundelkhand rajas out of Garkhundar, they retreated to distant Orchha. After, in the 16th century, the Bundela Rajput became one of the largest and most powerful kingdoms in Central India, with Orchha as its capital, next to the beautiful Betwa River.

Hidden at its height, Orchha still seems to be somewhat hidden from the general tourist route. I find it to be a peaceful, slow-paced farming town with many beautiful palaces and temples to visit. The buildings are well-preserved and have a very unique medieval Islamic architectural style I have not seen elsewhere.

I spend two days climbing on and photographing the various palaces with two other travelers: Roman, from France, and Yuri from Colorado. We also visit the local Hindu temple. I try some excellent street food--a kind of chick pea-onion-sweet and spicy sauce combination, served in a bowl made of dried leaves.

This is the first place I have seen lots of critters in my hotel--geckos, a frog in the bathroom, cockroaches. But I remind myself of my brother, who likes these little critters, and I try to look on the situation positively.